We're Back in Berlin Ja!

We're Back in Berlin Ja!
ebe & ian at Yak-toberfest 2008

Saturday, April 30, 2011

The Races!

I can't begin to tell you how excited I was for the horse races. For the uninitiated, horse racing is a family favorite. An afternoon (hopefully) spent in the sun watching these beautiful animals in their prime, wanting to WIN. It's also fun to play a little classy while still getting to go a little berserk as they enter that last stretch, rapidly crossing those final furlongs. 
"Go number 6! 
Come on Devil's Horn! 
Get after him Johnson!"

I was particularly excited for this race because the English really do it up nice. We sloppy Americans come to the races in the ubiquitous jeans & a t-shirt and drink our terrible tiny cups of budweiser beers for the un-reasonably marked up price of $7. Not so for the Engs. Locally brewed cider, pims (which we still missed trying-next time), ales, and bitters are on hand for the same price you'd find in a pub. And the hats! For everyone who saw The Wedding (you know what I am talking about- don't act like you didn't watch the royals get it on), you are now well aware they are into hats. Feather hats, bowler hats, big hats, teensy hats were on display. I actually quite liked them and think I will be looking for one of my own. 




The most important difference, however, is the racing. In the US race tracks are common, but jump racing is not. Our horses run almost exclusively on dirt and flat on the ground. The races we were going to see were Jump races. 

Important Differences between flat & National Hunt (NH):
  • Weights: Flat jockeys in the UK are expected to ride at weights between 7st 5lbs (103lbs) and 10st (140lbs). NH jockeys on the other hand carry weights between 9st 7lbs (133lbs) and 12½ stone (175lbs). Many people think that a jockeys height is important; it is not possible to be too tall for racing, but ability to do weight is a must.
  • Distances: Flat racing occurs between distances of five furlongs and two and a half miles. Jump racing occurs over distances of two miles to four and a half miles.
  • Start: Flat racers begin races from a starting stall, which is much like humans starting running events from blocks. They ensure an accurate, fast start (whether or not runners or riders wish to take them up on that is another matter!) However, jump races begin with a flip start, involving a tape spreading across the track, and being dropped: a level start is not quite as important in jump racing due to the longer distance of the race.
  • Falls: Falls happen more in NH racing (for obvious reasons!). Jump jockeys generally have shorter careers than their flat racing colleagues due to the higher chances of falls - jump jockeys are reported to fall, on average, once in every 12 rides.
  • Titles: Jockeys who are new to either types of racing are allowed to take a bit of weight off their horses back - this makes up for their lack of experience and will hopefully encourage trainers to use the services of a newcomer on some of their horses. The majority of riders are able to claim 7lbs at the beginning of their careers, although in some circumstances, riders can take upto 9 or 10lbs off their horses back. Once a rider has achieved 15 winners, he drops to claiming 5lbs, i.e. with greater experience, the jockey can no longer ride with such a useful weight allowance. Many claimers drop from 7lbs, to 5lbs, and then to 3lbs: once they reach a total of 90 winners, they lose any claim they had. Jockeys who are open to these weight allowance in flat racing are called apprentices, in jump racing, these people are called conditionals. Many people term them as (7lb/5lb/3lb) claimers.
  • Season Length: The flat racing season begins in March and ends in November. Here after, flat jockeys either ride abroad, or stay to compete on the All Weather racing circuit. Jumps racing has no such 'holiday' - NH racing occurs throughout the year, although summer jumps racing does not generally run at the high level of the winter months.
  • Money: Riding fees in jump racing are greater than in flat racing. NH jockeys earn approximately £115, while their flat colleagues earn about £85
I could barely contain myself as we took the train out there and actually walked across the course to reach the grandstands from the train station. I will have some of my pics up soon, but even better- we have video:






And pictures!


Walking on the course to get to the stands.

Parade Arena on a gorgeous day

Sir Ian

First Pass

Final Jump

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Cambridge: Quaint as F@#%

A lot of people seemed surprised we chose Cambridge over Oxford, but for us it seemed natural. Knowing we were going to be spending the majority of our time in London, a city we had at least briefly visited before, we wanted to see something different. And while Oxford is a legitimate city, Cambridge is kinda a prestigious yet sleepy college town. Perfect, we thought. Someday we will back & probably explore Oxford, but I can't say we were wrong in our estimations of what we would find in Cambridge.

That town is ridiculous. Like really truly quaint. I wanted to stuff the whole city in my pocket and take it around with me, taking it out from time to time to gaze at it like a perfect village within a snowglobe. But that's creepy. And the town is cute, real cute.


Punting on these boats is a popular tourist activity
Would love to know how old this place is. Amazing
Serious Quaintness
First lunch: Ploughman's Platter. I am in love.
Wisteria everywhere. How can a whole town smell like happiness?
A spot of tea at the B&B

The weather was beautiful the whole time. We know- we were very lucky
I know! We can't even believe we saw this gorgeousness.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Back in Berlin!

Ahhhhh! Back sitting on our couch in Berlin. We've got lots & lots of videos, pictures, and things to say but for now we will just say "It's good to be home"!

One of the first stories to pass our way upon our return:

"Police Shoot Two in Berlin Pitbull Attack

Two people were accidentally shot by police in Berlin as they were trying to kill an out-of-control pitbull. The officers had been dispatched to the apartment building in the Wedding district of the German capital on Tuesday evening after reports that the dog had escaped its home and bitten a woman.
The incident occurred when a 30-year-old woman rang the doorbell of a neighboring couple, which had been looking after Carlito, a two-year-old pitbull. When the door was opened, the dog went on the attack, biting the woman's leg. Her cries alerted others in the building, who called the police. Efforts to separate the pitbull from the woman using pepper spray were initially unsuccessful.
By the the time police arrived, however, the dog had let go and everyone had taken refuge in their homes. The officers initially intended to take the dog with them, but it could not be subdued, so they fired their weapons at the animal, killing it.
The dog, however, wasn't the only one hit, a police spokeswoman explained to the DAPD news agency. One ricocheting bullet hit a responding officer while another smashed through an apartment door and hit a woman standing on the other side -- the same woman who had been attacked by the dog.
Both of those hit were taken to hospital with minor injuries. Two other officers were also taken in for treatment of shock."


Oh Berlin. You rascal.



Friday, April 22, 2011

Ian tries to Speak British

Had a lovely time in Cambridge & have just arrived in London. Ian is having a grand time picking up the local accent.

Ian Porter Everybody!










Sunday, April 17, 2011

Booking Activities in England

We re-focused, got our shit together, and are almost ready for England. Kinda.

We discovered Groupon UK which people have been onto for eons and it is saving us loads of money. We are going to Sandown Park for jump racing for 19 pounds - which includes entrance into the premier section, 10 pound food voucher, and a 2 pound bet. Sounds like a dream date to me. Nice try wooing me Ian, I'm already your wife! Sucker.

We have also come upon some fascinating booking options. First, our booking for Hamlet at the Globe Theatre on Easter:


Has to be a joke, but we were dying to pit Baroness, Colonel, or Princess Ian for our title.
Then again, maybe it's not a joke. Europeans in general are obsessed with title (see Royal Wedding). In Germany, it is correct to use every title a person holds, like:
"Good evening Herr Professor Doktor Schmidt!"

Another encounter we have had in booking is investigating how to get to Sandown Park- the racetrack. Our poor asses will be heading there by the cheapest means possible. The very helpful website also included the most expensive, by helicopter:













Oh England, I can't wait to become better acquainted.

Really crazy excited about the horse racing. There is barely anything but flat Thoroughbred racing in the States (which I love) but man, oh man I can't wait for this. Count how many times a riderless horse is in the top 3:

Friday, April 15, 2011

For those who remember....

RL Stine is somehow making a comeback. What? You aren't familiar with the most distinguished author of horror novels for 6th graders & below in the 1990s in the United States? Wait- you do?! You are our people.

If you aren't familiar- check out the wikipedia page: RL Stine. If you are really interested, check out my favorite division, the Fear Street series. Ian & I were having a heated debate about whether Goosebumps or Fear Street was the best and Ian claimed to have proof that his preference of Goosebumps was superior. To prove it he showed me this section of the Fear street Wikipedia page:




Look under the first paragraph of "Conventions", last sentence. 

Touché Ian. Well played. Anyone else want to edit the page? Ian's edit is still up. See how long it will last...

                      VS.
 

 

 

 

 

Update: Sadly, the page has been returned to it's original (boring) format

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Bad Habits in Trip Planning

Ian & I have the bad habit of planning a trip...and then planning another on top of it. We are heading to England over Easter,  but his dad just booked his tickets to visit in Berlin so now we are busy planning his travel arrangements and side trips to Denmark & Italy. Plus we're trying to figure out how we can get to Greece in August and SE Asia around Christmas. The problem?

  • Do we have a place to stay in Cambridge? NO
  • Do we know what horse track has steeplechases during this holiday weekend? NO
  • Do we know if the Roald Dahl museum is closed? NO
  • Do we know how to get from Stanstead to Cambridge? NO
  • Do we know if we should take the train or bus in & out from the airport? NO
  • Are all of our dishes washed? Again, a resounding NO
Need to get back into that Engy excitement. This may seem as if it would have the opposite effect, but I am going to explore some English cuisine and culture to get my Brit back.

Butty - A butty is a sandwich. The most famous butty is the chip butty. The perfect chip butty (invented in Liverpool) consists of two fairly large slices from a large white loaf, liberally buttered, layered with chips (salt and vinegar optional) and smothered in tomato sauce. 

Banger - The good old British banger is bigger and fatter than the American breakfast link sausage. It is served for dinner with fried onions and gravy, in batter as toad in the hole or for breakfast with eggs, back bacon, mushrooms, black pudding, fried potatoes, grilled tomatoes, toast and marmalade. There are also many regional sausages that combine different meats, herbs and spices. And don't forget good old Bangers and Mash.



Beer mat - Pubs always serve beer on a little card coaster which advertises the brewery or beer. They make great frisbees and are used for several pub games/jokes/tricks.


Bevvy - If someone asks you if you want to come out for a bevvy, they are asking you to the pub for a beer.

Biscuit - Cookie in America. Though the large home-made chocolate chip type things would also be referred to as cookies in England. We also use the word "biscuit" to mean cracker, for instance you will see "biscuits for cheese" in the supermarkets, which are assortments of crackers. 

Bitter - Bitter is what we call beer. However, this is not what you call "beer" - we call that lager. Beers are the dark ales that are so popular amongst British drinkers. Served a little below room temperature, but not cold like yours. This is the most popular alcoholic beverage of the UK male drinking population. It is served in pints at just under room temperature (real ales, however are served AT room temperature). Real Ales are non carbonated beers made from hops and barley. 

Black pudding - Missed by Brits in America, thin or thick black pudding is one of the staples of a cooked breakfast. Looking like a black sausage it is made from pigs blood and fat. Sounds horrid, but like faggots, you should try it before passing judgement!

Bubble & Squeak
Bubble & Squeak -  Bubble & squeak is an old English breakfast dish made from frying up left over greens and potato.


Clotted cream - This cream looks a bit scary at first. It is yellow and crusty on top. It is thicker than single cream or double cream and totally delicious. It is served in blobs with cakes or spread on scones.



Crackling - The skin of the pork joint, scored with a knife, rubbed with salt and roasted so that it crunches around the outside of the meat. Fabulous!


Cream Tea - This is something you should definitely try when you visit England, particularly if you are visiting the little villages of Cornwall or the West Country. A real cream tea consists of a pot of tea, some fresh warm scones that you spread with homemade strawberry jam and top with thick, yellow, clotted cream. 

Crisps - Salt and vinegar, cheese and onion, beef, smoky bacon. Crisps are called chips in America.

Crumpet - One of the oldest traditions in English foody fads is the crumpet. A cratered flat cake. Toasted and covered in butter, so that it drips into the holes, the crumpet is enjoyed at tea on a Sunday, during the winter. It is about the size and shape of an English muffin (itself recently introduced to the UK and unheard of by most Brits!). Crumpet also has another meaning. Men might refer to women as a bit of crumpet, or they might fancy some crumpet tonight.
 
Curry - England has more than it's fair share of Indian restaurants. Anything from a korma or a bhuna to a madras or a vindaloo are amongst the favourite curries. Curry houses are one of the few places that serve alcohol (lager) after the pubs shut. Therefore it is very popular, after your 10 pints of lager, to pop next door to the curry house for 10 more pints, some poppadoms and a good curry.

English muffin - No such thing. Nobody seems to know why these are called this. Until recently, they were not available in England. Even now that some supermarkets stock them, most Brits think they are things you get in America. And they think they are big fluffy things! Cause we're not big on muffins either.

Faggot -  Made by many butchers, they are meatballs wrapped in a casing of intestine. Delicious! The best known commercial brand is Brains Faggots - eat them with gravy.

Deliciously greasy Fish & Chips
Fish and chip shop -The chip shop has been an important part of the British culinary experience. Mimicked badly on your side of the water nothing beats a good bag of Cod'n'chips, some mushy peas and a saveloy.

   
Haggis - One of the best known and most misunderstood Scottish inventions. Haggis is made from offal and grain and is held together in a sheep's stomach. It can be grilled, fried, or boiled whole. It is absolutely delicious and is traditionally served with neaps and tatties (turnips and mashed potato).



Jellied eels - In the east end of London, these are a local tradition and delicacy. As the name suggests they are simply eels, cooked and left to set in their own jelly.


Joint - Either something containing wacky backy that you smoke to get high, or a piece of meat that is roasted on a Sunday with roast spuds, roast parsnips, veggies and gravy. Like roast leg of pork and crackling. Mmmmmmmm!


Mushy peas - An English tradition. Mushy peas are reconstituted dried peas that go all mushy. They are often served with fish and chips, or on their own with mint sauce.

Nosh - This is simply another word for food. If you were going out for some nosh it would mean you were going to get some lunch or dinner at a restaurant. Posh nosh is what you get at expensive restaurants.



Pickled onions - These little onions are a staple part of the British diet. Every kitchen has a jar in the cupboard or the fridge and many people still make their own. Peeled little shallots in pickling vinegar and eaten with cheese and salads.

Pie - This word is more of a subtle difference in usage. Unless specified otherwise, a pie would default to a meat pie with a pastry lid. Of course, we still have apple pies and the like. Pie's always have lids. No lid - no pie! We call that a tart.

Pimms - Another English tradition. Pimms is a liquor that you mix with lemonade in a tall glass with slices of apple, orange and cucumber and some fresh mint leaves. It is a summer, outside sort of drink that people drink at home and at the races, Wimbledon, Ascot, Henley etc. It is fairly alcoholic.


Ploughman's Lunch - You'll see these in pubs on the menu at lunchtime. Basically it's a chunk of cheese, some pickle, a pickled onion and a hunk of (hopefully) nice bread. Sometimes the cheese will be substituted with a piece of home baked ham.


Rasher - You have to have a couple of back rashers with a proper English breakfast. You would call them slices of bacon.
Scone
Scones - These look like your biscuits but must ONLY be eaten with clotted cream and strawberry jam. If you are ever lucky enough to encounter real scones (with or without currants), in England or on a British Airways flight, cut the scone in half and spread the jam on each half, top it off with the cream and enjoy it WITH a cup of tea. No other method is permitted or forgivable. Most arrests of American tourists are for eating Scones the wrong way!

Scotch egg - Horrid, though they are, I actually like scotch eggs! They are hard-boiled eggs surrounded in a half-inch layer of sausage meat and coated in breadcrumbs and deep fried. Then you eat them cold at picnics!



Shepherd's pie - Originally made from leftovers, this is not a true pie, nor does it contain any shepherds! It is minced lamb, cooked with some veggies and topped with mashed potato (sometimes with cheese) on top and grilled till brown. Not to be confused with Cottage Pie which is almost the same, but with minced beef.

Simnel cake - This is the traditional British Easter cake. It is a heavy fruit cake with a thick layer of marzipan right through the centre. There is marzipan on the top too plus usually balls or chicks made from marzipan decorating the top. Excellent with a cuppa.

Spotted dick -Spotted dick is a suet pudding with dried fruit and is an excellent pudding in winter with custard.



Tarts - If you flirt with members of the opposite sex you could be described quite legitimately as a tart. If you are a pastry base with jam or fruit topping you would also be a tart. But in this instance you may have cream or custard poured over you! 


Tea - One of the English classics. Tea is either a drink made from tea leaves (loose in a pre warmed pot), boiling water, served in china cups, milk first and at about 4 o'clock in the afternoon. Or tea is the name for the meal served early evening, nowadays by Grandma and Grandad since most modern folk eat dinner at about 7:30pm or later.


Toad in the hole - You may see this on the menu in a pub or restaurant. It is basically Yorkshire pudding or batter with sausages embedded in it.

Twiglets - These are an important part of the British culinary culture. They look and feel like little sticky twigs, though they are really a snack with a strange marmite tang - hence the stickiness. Try them when you visit.

Vacuum flask - A vacuum flask is a thermos to you. It keeps hot things hot and cold things cold. I have an ice cream and some coffee in mine. Not!

Yorkshire Pudding

Wine gums - These are a kind of sweet that are made from the same stuff as Gummi-bears. They are bigger and round and very useful for shutting the kids up for about an hour!

Yorkshire pudding - You may see this on the menu in a pub or restaurant. It is a light batter that rises when it is cooked. In pubs you will sometimes see huge ones that rise at the edges to form a sort of bowl. The middle can be filled with anything from sausages and beans, to soup or stew. Worth a try if they look good. Traditionally, smaller Yorkshire puds are served with roast beef, as an accompaniment with horseradish sauce and gravy, roast spuds and veggies.


For more of the insanity: www.effingpot.com/food

Friday, April 8, 2011

It's the Little Differences

Just got back from a grocery run and one of those little differences Ian & I just can't get past occured.

Woman with a cart was running all over the store. About 10 min after she pushed (literally) past  us, I saw her knock a champagne bottle to the floor. Wet floor & glass = instant clean-up....in the US. There is much to be said about the negative effect of our litigious history, but this seems like common sense. Not so for German Netto clerks. Another 10 minutes and it's still there. We even have to tromp through this slick glassy patch to get to the register.  We watch two little boys slip in it and barely escape falling on the glass as we stack our items on the conveyor belt. Thinking maybe they just didn't know, Ian asked if she was aware. A simple "Ja" cemented it- FEND FOR YOURSELVES!

As I said, it's the little differences 

Thursday, April 7, 2011

These are my People

My dad is actually first generation American. His parents and older brother were all full-bloodied Eng. And despite that, all 4 boys could not even imitate their parents accent. Seriously!? Alfred's accent seemed so exotic and sophisticated, which is something for a man that was fist fighting well into grandpa-dom.

Despite frequent goadings, my dad & uncles are vague in the extreme about their parents. Some of our favorite stories are well preserved
(the family friend of a mafia man my grandma wouldn't let in the house; the theft of a farmer's pig while my grandpa held the title of "game warden"; the terrible driving due to the loss of one in "the war"; the battles with rooster "Rambo" in his California suburb)
while other facts of their lives have completely vanished. Because of complicated family matters, there are almost no pictures of either of my grandparents or the boys. Our connection to England has almost died out with the loss of my great-great Aunt Victoria (thankfully not when I lost her at a State Fair in the US). We know that they were both from the area around Liverpool, but know next to nothing of their hometowns.

My dad & the rest of the Balls are fairly comfortable with our British past. But for me, I want to know more.  The stories of his life truly are legendary. A real swashbuckling, outrageous, character of a man. I miss him, and sometimes think being more in line with the Brits will put me more in line with the Balls.


Ian & I are re-visiting one of our favorite places over Easter break and heading back to Old Blighty, The Old Dart, merry old England. We will be mostly staying in London doing touristy things and not-so-touristy and maybe, just maybe, connecting with some roots. 
So far our list includes:
  • High Tea (location to be decided)
  • Hamlet at the Globe Theatre
  • Fish & Chips
  • Battle for decent Indian men at Brick Lane
  • Speaker's Corner in Hyde Park
  • FREE MUSEUMS!
  • Find a Banksy graffiti piece
  • Meeting my boss man (been working for him since 2008 & just heard his voice for the first time last fall)
  • Jack the Ripper tour
  • Markets
  • Harrods? (Compare it to our KaDeWe)
  • Matinee for more theatre
  • Go to Cockfosters (promise a picture!)
  • Dim sum in Chinatown
  • Chelsea Physic Garden in Spring
  • Tour the BBC

Outside of London:
  • Cambridge
  • Stand on the edge of the world in Greenwich
  • Cardiff, Wales
  • Roald Dahl Museum
  • Steeplechase (watch those racehorses jump)

We're going full ENG.


Also not to be forgotten, the Tower Bridge was the site of our proposal in 2007. Not bad Ian Porter, not bad.


If you got a little Englished out just reading this, watch Stephen Colbert ruin High Tea:
Stephen-colbert-completely-ruin-a-british-high-tea-session
Hilarious & irreverent.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Berlin- Then & Now

Incredible pictures of Berlin 
images merged between 1945 & today.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Beautiful Berlin Brunch

Out to brunch with Ian today and had one of those moments (as the sun was shining, brunch halfway in our bellies, band played) that reminded us of why we are living in Berlin.
 


Sorry for the shaky quality. Trying not to throw off the cool vibe of the place, yet I am sure we did. I am mostly unremorseful as we are still stuffed with greek dolmades,  cous cous, crepes, fruit, chicken nuggets, stuffed peppers, fried mushrooms, pasta salad, variety of cheeses, chicken wings, caprese salad, and giant milchkaffee. How I love the Germans loose connection with "traditional" Brunch foods.

Friday, April 1, 2011

Arty Farty Berlin

I came across a mention of Berlin's art scene in the New York Times....and than another....and than another. It is no surprise that Berlin has art lurking around every corner, waiting to attack, but it is good to see the good 'ole U.S of A. is finally getting to the party. When we left the US in 2007, people seemed to have only the most basic understanding of Berlin. Few people seemed aware that is it the baddest, most late night living, cheapeast, artiest, weirdest, tastiest, freakiest world capitol. But then again, I'm biased.



Anyhoo, back to the articles.
James Franco is making art happen in the big, bad city of Berlin and it seems to suit him: http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/02/18/james-franco-artist-surfaces-in-berlin/








A gas station finds it's calling as an art installation: http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/03/31/transforming-a-berlin-gas-station-into-art/





A unique hotel experience/art installation, complete with reindeer: http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/11/21/at-berlin-museum-reindeer-art-and-overnight-stays/





And the rats that were painted on an apartment building (the owner's who commissioned the piece were hoping it would be the artist's trademark birds) : http://intransit.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/01/31/new-additions-to-the-berlin-street-art-scene/
This where Ian gets his daily coffee.  At another time of day, we might have seen a Mr. Porter in this pic.



Let's step into the art...