Where to take your parents in Europe: Rome

I seem to be making a habit of visiting the most romantic places in Italy with my Father-in-Law. Venice, Cinque Terre and now Rome.

I mean, Ian is there too but the trip is definitely a little different as a trio - erm, a foursome! Cuz on this trip we had another little traveler, baby Matilda. We are officially in the "family travel" category, aren't we?

I think of visiting all these amazing places with her being so little and feel a little bad she isn't going to remember any of it. At least we have the pictures - a lot of pictures - and all this travel experience should make her a pro before her first birthday. Absorb the beauty, baby.

So anyways, Rome. We'd only been there once before in an unintended one-day stop on our epic month+ long trip. There was a lot more to see.

The Ideal Island Vacation: Ischia, Italy

In early June, we realized Ian had some vacation days and sometime - sometime soon - I was going to be far too big and uncomfortable to travel. Thus, our usual brand of spontaneous/half-planned travel was born. But where?

There are few place we won't go. Bucharest in August? Why not. Copenhagen just for a day to pick up a parent? Or course. Idaho? Let's do it!

But given our poor trip planning, flights to just about anywhere were more then we hoped to pay. So I got creative. Thought outside the box. I looked at packages. Rarely the best deal for us bargain-basement globetrotters, I found that easyjet delivers some pretty enticing cheapo deals. I found one such combo (just over 400 euro for a flights & hotel for 2 for 4 nights) to the island of Ischia, Italy. After we fell in love with the area during a trip to Naples and the island of Procida two years earlier - we couldn't resist going back.

How does Youtube work?

Deep thoughts I have while eating pizza on the Ubahn

We have a YouTube channel that we mostly just abuse. We toss "dad videos" up (just like dad's where he would film events for far too long with random narrative and then proudly show the unedited version) whenever we have time. So the quality is....not so hot.

Somehow, one video has rated a favorite among all the others.

Escape from Naples ~ Island of Procida

As excited as we were to be going to Naples and Pompeii, I was not pleased that our summer vacation would consist solely of hot & dusty sites. I love swimming and neither of these places were conducive for a dip. I've posted a bit about our successes (and failures) in this arena, but despite any setbacks - I really love a good swim. When I hear about expats in exotic lands with palm trees and turquoise water I have to fight the intense feelings of jealousy, no matter how awesome Berlin is.

So the whisper of islands off of Naples was intoxicating to me. I had heard of Capri (and it's epic tourist hordes), but the words Ischia and Procida were totally alien. At first we were leaning toward Ischia.

Ischia is a volcanic island in the Tyrrhenian Sea. It lies at the northern end of the Gulf of Naples, about 30 km from the city of Naples. It is the largest of the Phlegrean Islands. The Aragonese Castle was built on a rock near the island in 474 BC, by Hiero I of Syracuse.

Mmmm...sounded intriguing. Especially since the castle appears straight out of Game of Thrones.

The main industry is tourism, centering on thermal spas that cater mostly to European (especially German) and Asian tourists eager to enjoy the fruits of the island's natural volcanic activity, its thermal hot springs, and its volcanic mud. For many of the inhabitants on the Italian-speaking island, German and English are second languages. The  Aragonese Castle is owned by a hotel and thought the exterior is accessible, you cannot enter the castle. 

Hrm. That doesn't.

Visiting the Site of Gruesome Demise: Pompeii

Ian & Steves

On our trip to Naples, I'm going to be honest and say I didn't want to go to Pompeii. Something about it "being too touristy", "just ruins", and "taking time away from pizza eating in Naples" crossed my lips. But for once - Ian was adamant and Kyle was on his side (traitor).

We went & I take it back. Pompeii is filled with tourists, some armed with Rick Steves guidebook like Ian, but that's because it is a MUST SEE. Much more than just ruins, the site is impeccably set-up for awe inspiring history. 

Naples - When the Moon Hits Your Eye

As Berlin summer weather continues to prevail, (RAIN...lots of rain) we are brought back to a sunnier time, just a month ago, when we were in Naples with my nephew.

Naples & Vesuvious

Ian suggested titles for this post that were both apt and ridiculous.

*Naples, a lovely place to wa- WATCH out for the vespa!*

*Rome wasn't dirty enough for you? Ben venuto a Nopli*

*Buffalo Mozzerella and the Mystery of the Stolen Passports*

*Dr. Palm Tree - or How I Stopped Worrying about the Heat and Love the Camora*

*Naples - We came for the pizza, we stayed for the dirty-ass fountain*

*Don't want to siesta? Go for a walk with the tourists and Indians*
 *Naples - where the majority of people are Fat*

Video Trip: Copenhagen

Along with the missing photos, we have just recently discovered some missing videos! (More like Ian take the video & promptly forgets about it.) Nevertheless, here are a few videos of our travels.

Copenhagen

Tivoli Gardens
Lovely, small, and expensive

(Post where we Rate the Danes & describe our adventures)

Italy

Venice



























Best pics & ratings of Venice

Bologna

Ratings for Bologna

Cinque Terre

More pics of Cinque Terre

Becoming One with the Tourist Hordes in Cinque Terre

We knew it was going to be bad. Italy in June-July. But Greg is a schoolteacher & Italy was his #1 destination. So we took a deep breath, loads of planning, and became one with the mass of tourists.

And it wasn't as bad as we feared. Lots of it was unbelievably awesome. And Cinque Terre, where we've been a few times before, wasn't the mass of old people and blank eyed tourists we thought it would be...ok it actually kinda was. But it is STILL so awesome we loved it. And got burnt to a crisp. A good time was had by all.

Corniglia - the unpopular village on the hill that treated us very well

Vernazza - site of our first swim

Dinner of muscles, clams, squid, and fish

Manarola - 2nd swim

Lazy cat!

Vernazza night

Manarola

Love Lock

Rio Maggiore

Porters

Rio Maggiore boats

 

Ferry ride through Cinque Terre

 

Feeling happy, but burnt. Weak English skin

Porter power!

Yes. Very burned

Meal with tortellini from Bologna, pesto from Cinque Terre

In-n-out shirt out of our window

Corniglia vista

Cotniglia

Beautiful wine bar Greg found in Corniglia

Sweet hound sends us off

Full album:Cinque Terre Pictures

Bologna by Towers

Ratings of our  trip through Italy continue, from Bergamo to Venice to.... 

Bologna

Transportation in Bologna

Greg

4 Towers - My feet were the transportation, but after a fine new pair of Italian sandals they enjoyed it much more.

Ian 
3 Towers - Very walkable city. Can’t say I used the transportation. Buses seemed convenient and frequent. Vespas abound- ciao!

VENICE - Less Bridges than Berlin, Just as Romantic

I have important news to talk about (new bunny, another visit from Thomas) & old news to record (4th of july) BUT editing down the album for Venice has me waxing on about it again. So, a few more featured pics....

Murano is a series of islands off of Venice. Just 45 min from the city and reachable by the Vaporetto. We wanted to go to an island, but I though Murano would be old people and touristy glass pieces. I was wrong. It also had a quieter atmosphere than Venice, the place greg finally bought a glass piece, and an awesome glass sculpture.

A steady diet of gelato kept us happy

Doge's Palace (note: you can take pics of he building, but not the interior. Not that it stopped many people)

Meow in Italian

Steves strikes again! We are a follower of Mr. Rick Steve, even if we do cringe when we are in the army of book carriers. he led us right here, recommending we try a cicchetti bar where you can eat a bunch of small bites for just a euro each. We had:  

Artichoke heart
ham with pesto
seabass spread
anchovy & onion

Ian got adventures at the grocery store and got us tiny octopus.  Greg & I were nervous, but not bad!

We came around a corner and a subtle rumble became a penitentiary screaming and clanking. Right outside of Venice! I've tried to find info on it, but not knowing the name everything re-directs to the Doge's Palace etc. A mystery

Our .50 cent gondola ride, just across the river

Love Locks are apparently a custom all over the world. Sweethearts put a lock on a bridge to symbolize their everlasting love.

Pigeon kings

What's not allowed in Venice? EVERYTHING

Last look at the square

It was awesome

The complete album if our ridiculous photo taking amuses you. And our ratings of Venice. And video:

One of the most Romantic Cities in the World...with your Father-in-Law

Just the side of Saint mark's is lovely

The ratings continue as our amateur testers- us- run around Italy and give scores that reflect our views. And just to once again confirm that these ratings are just personal perceptions, the porn proprietor Larry Flint:

Opinions are like assholes, everybody's got one.

Venice

Transportation in Venice

Greg
4 Gondolas - Water taxis (vaporetto) aka water buses. What a novel concept! Lovely way to see the city and surrounding area.

Ian 
4 Gondolas - Everything was very accessible. Only drawback was that vaporettos were very expensive. But who needs that when you can walk everywhere?

ebe
3.5 Gondolas - Train station is a bit far from things, but the vaporettos make moving around easy. They are a pricy option, but entirely necessary to truly see the city. Plus they take your out to islands which gives a unique look at the place and a brief respite from the crowds. Walking is the best way to get to know a  city and walking through alleys, along canals, and over arched bridges..."È una bella città"!

Accommodation in Venice

Map in the lobby

Greg
4 Gondolas - Accommodations were wonderful. Intriguing decor, fascinating building. Only drawback was night clerk was rather snotty.

Ian 

4.5 Gondolas - Awesome building with antique furniture. Air conditioner was a bit weak, wifi only on main floor, and lack of common room were the only shitty thing.

ebe
4.5 Gondolas -  The Pensione Guerrato was right off the Realto and fish market, this was one of the best locations I have ever stayed. Paired with true antique decor and lovey Italian breakfast (chocolate & coffee) I see why rick Steves recommends. Down-side is that Rick Steves recommends so there are many a Steves book around and it's like mini-America. Also, air conditioner & wi-fi could use a boost.

Sights in Venice

Doge's Palace

Greg
4.5 Gondolas -  From alley to bridge, to Grand Canal- stunning with every step.

Ian 
5 Gondolas - Everywhere you turn is a postcard. The actual sights themselves are absolutely amazing.

ebe

4 Gondolas -  As romantic, decadent, and rotting as one could hope. Even as a motley crew of Porters, it's magic. The Doge's Palace was overpriced, but Ian helped by talking them into giving one of us a student price- well done Ian!

Also- great Steve's tip: Check your bag at the Ateneo San Basso, a former church just around the corner and down the Calle San Basso from the Basilica's main entrance. and you can skip the line.

The only thing that hides it's loveliness is the throngs of us tourists.

These guys own the city & know it

 Dining in Venice

Greg

4 Gondolas - Highlight for dining was lunch on Murano. Welcoming owner, very attentive, hands-on.  Many tidbits of Venice flavors. Quite delightful

Ian 
3 Gondolas - Overall, a culinary disappointment. There was however, a lovely lunch in Murano. We sat next to Keith Richards- a little more salt on that salad?

ebe
4.5 Gondolas -  Tourist menus are always enticing, but dissuading. But what is the real Venice for cuisine? We chickened out and had lots of groceries and little meals, which I think did us a dis-service. Should have got our hands dirty and gone in for a big splurgy meal. Still, gelato greasing every meal and snack time helps. And Ian forced us to eat a bunch of little squids (video coming) which was a highlight.

And Murano's lunch was perfect!  Wandering in when most things were shut for siesta, we were warmly welcomed by the owner who charmed us all through lunch and served cuttlefish & Bolognase on spaghetti, wine, and we even tried Grappa (Fermented from the peels, seed and stems of grapes, it is clear in color and of high alcoholic gradation. This beverage is very popular in northern Italy and is normally consumed as an after dinner digestive drink).

Overall

Greg
4.75 Gondolas - Beautiful city, extra bonus Murano. Getting Murano glass ornament from Keith Richard’s shop- priceless.

Ian 
5 Gondolas - It’s Venice. It truly lives up to it’s expectations, even in the middle of July. 

Doge's Palace

ebe
4 Gondolas -  We counted how many mask/glass stores Greg went in before buying something. I think it was 15. BUT it was fun to see the city, every nook & cranny. We had serious fears about prices & crowds at this time of year and both were manageable. I like to get away from the crowds, but this was a city I was glad to see with the guys.

Looking out from the Square

Photo Post
Complete Venice photo album